The Ultimate Guide to Rubies: History, Quality, and How to Choose the Perfect Ruby Jewellery

1. Introduction to Rubies

Rubies are among the most treasured gemstones, known for their deep, fiery red colour and rich historical significance. Often referred to as the "king of gemstones," rubies have been prized for centuries for their rarity, beauty, and symbolic meanings. The vibrant red hue of rubies symbolises passion, love, and power, making them a popular choice for jewellery pieces that hold personal or emotional significance.

In this guide, we will explore everything you need to know about rubies to make an informed purchase. We will discuss their fascinating history and cultural significance, explain how to evaluate their quality using the 4Cs—colour, clarity, cut, and carat weight—and introduce additional factors unique to rubies, such as fluorescence and treatments. You’ll learn about the different types of rubies, how to identify genuine stones, and practical tips for choosing and caring for your ruby jewellery.

Join us as we dive into the enchanting world of rubies, helping you find the perfect piece that reflects your style and embodies the timeless allure of this remarkable gemstone.

2. The History of Rubies in Jewellery

The history of rubies in jewellery dates back thousands of years, with these precious stones being revered for their vibrant red colour and mystical properties. Rubies have been cherished by many ancient civilisations, from India and China to Greece and Rome. In ancient India, rubies were known as “ratnaraj,” or “king of precious stones,” and were believed to protect their wearer from harm and bring good fortune. They were also used in religious ceremonies and royal jewellery, symbolising power and protection.

In medieval Europe, rubies were thought to bring health, wisdom, and success in love, making them a popular choice among royalty and the wealthy. Throughout the centuries, rubies have been associated with passion, courage, and prosperity, and were often worn by warriors in battle to protect them from harm.

Today, rubies continue to be admired in fine jewellery, reflecting their enduring appeal and the deep cultural and historical significance they carry. Whether set in classic or contemporary designs, rubies remain a symbol of love, strength, and vitality, making them a timeless and cherished choice.

3. Understanding Ruby Quality: The 4Cs and Beyond

When evaluating rubies, the 4Cs—colour, clarity, cut, and carat weight—are crucial factors that determine their quality and value. However, there are additional considerations specific to rubies that also play a significant role in assessing their overall appeal.

• Colour is the most important factor in determining a ruby’s quality. The finest rubies display a vivid, deep red hue, often described as “pigeon blood red.” This colour is highly prized and typically commands the highest prices. A good ruby should have a rich, saturated red colour with minimal secondary hues like brown or purple.
• Clarity refers to the presence of inclusions or internal flaws. While some inclusions are common in natural rubies, those with fewer and less visible inclusions are more valuable. However, inclusions can also indicate that a ruby is natural rather than synthetic, so they are not always seen as negative.
• Cut affects how a ruby reflects light and displays its colour. A well-cut ruby maximises its brilliance and enhances its natural beauty.
• Carat weight measures the size of the ruby. Larger rubies are rarer and often more valuable, but the colour and clarity are usually more important factors in determining a ruby's overall value.

Understanding these factors, along with recognising treatments and enhancements, helps you choose a ruby that meets your aesthetic and budgetary preferences.

4. Types of Rubies: Natural, Synthetic, and Treated Rubies

When choosing ruby jewellery, it's important to understand the different types of rubies available: natural rubies, synthetic rubies, and treated rubies.

Natural rubies are formed over millions of years under intense geological conditions. These rubies are rare and valued for their unique characteristics, including their vibrant red colour and inclusions that add to their individuality. Natural rubies are considered the most desirable, especially when they are untreated, but they can also come with a higher price tag.

Synthetic rubies are created in laboratories using the same chemical, physical, and optical properties as natural rubies. These rubies are typically more affordable and often free of the inclusions found in natural stones, making them an excellent choice for those looking for the beauty of rubies without the high cost.

Treated rubies are natural stones that have undergone treatments to enhance their colour or clarity. Common treatments include heat treatment, which is widely accepted in the gemstone market to improve the ruby’s appearance. Some rubies may also be fracture-filled or treated with flux to fill inclusions. Treated rubies can offer a more budget-friendly option while still showcasing the gem’s beauty.

5. Ruby Colours and Origins: Which Is Right for You?

Rubies come in a range of red shades, from light pinkish-red to deep, dark crimson. The most valuable rubies have a rich, vivid red colour with a slightly bluish tint, often referred to as “pigeon blood red.” This hue is considered the finest and is highly prized in the gemstone market.

The colour of a ruby can also be influenced by its origin. Burmese rubies (from Myanmar) are known for their exceptional colour and are considered some of the most valuable in the world. These rubies often exhibit a deep red hue with a slight blue undertone. Thai rubies tend to have darker tones, with hints of brown, and are less expensive than Burmese rubies. African rubies (from Mozambique or Madagascar) often display a bright, vibrant red with good transparency.

When choosing a ruby, consider the colour and origin that best match your personal preferences and budget. While the classic red ruby is most popular, each origin offers unique characteristics that appeal to different tastes. Understanding these differences can help you select the perfect ruby for your collection.

6. How to Choose the Perfect Ruby Jewellery

Choosing the perfect ruby jewellery involves considering several factors, including style, budget, and the occasion for which the piece is intended. Start by deciding on the type of ruby—whether you prefer the rarity and uniqueness of a natural ruby, the affordability of a synthetic ruby, or the enhanced appearance of a treated ruby.

Think about the jewellery style that suits you best. For an engagement ring or a statement piece, a well-cut ruby in a traditional shape, such as oval or cushion, might be ideal to maximise the stone’s colour and brilliance. For a more contemporary look, consider a ruby in an unusual shape or a fancy cut. The metal setting is also crucial; yellow gold enhances the ruby's warm tones, while white metals like platinum or white gold provide a striking contrast.

Consider your budget carefully. Natural, untreated rubies from prestigious origins like Burma (Myanmar) can be quite expensive, especially if they exhibit a vivid red colour and high clarity. Treated or synthetic rubies offer stunning alternatives at lower prices. Finally, ensure the ruby you choose reflects your personal style and the sentiment behind the piece, whether it’s a symbol of love, passion, or simply an admiration for one of the world’s most captivating gemstones.

7. Identifying Genuine Rubies and Recognising Imitations

Identifying genuine rubies is crucial to ensure that you are purchasing an authentic gemstone rather than an imitation. Rubies are often imitated using materials like red spinel, garnet, or glass, which can closely resemble real rubies but lack their unique qualities. To distinguish genuine rubies from imitations, it is essential to understand their key characteristics.

One way to identify a genuine ruby is by examining its inclusions. Real rubies often have natural inclusions or "silk," which are tiny needle-like structures visible under magnification. These inclusions are considered a hallmark of authenticity and can help differentiate natural rubies from synthetic ones, which typically have fewer or no inclusions.

Colour is another indicator of authenticity. Genuine rubies have a rich, deep red colour with a slightly bluish tint, often described as “pigeon blood red.” Imitations may appear overly bright, too dark, or too uniformly coloured. To ensure the authenticity of a ruby, always seek certifications from reputable gemological laboratories, such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the American Gemological Laboratories (AGL). These certifications provide an unbiased assessment of a ruby’s quality, origin, and any treatments it may have undergone.

8. Caring for Your Ruby Jewellery

Proper care is essential to maintain the beauty and durability of your ruby jewellery. Rubies are among the hardest gemstones, second only to diamonds, but they can still chip or crack if exposed to sharp blows or harsh conditions. To keep your rubies looking their best, clean them regularly with a soft cloth or a mild soap and water solution. Gently scrub the jewellery with a soft brush, rinse thoroughly, and dry with a lint-free cloth.

Avoid exposing your ruby jewellery to harsh chemicals, such as chlorine or household cleaners, which can damage the gemstone or its setting. When not in use, store your rubies separately in a soft cloth pouch or a padded jewellery box to prevent scratches from contact with other pieces.

Be mindful of wearing your rubies during activities that may expose them to impact or abrasive surfaces. Removing your ruby rings or bracelets when doing heavy work or engaging in sports can help protect them from damage. By following these care tips, you can ensure your ruby jewellery retains its brilliance and value for many years.

9. Common Misconceptions About Rubies

There are several common misconceptions about rubies that can lead to confusion when purchasing or caring for them. One prevalent myth is that all rubies must be flawless to be valuable. In reality, most natural rubies have inclusions, which are common and expected in these gemstones. Unlike diamonds, the presence of some inclusions in rubies does not necessarily diminish their beauty or value, especially if the colour is exceptional.

Another misconception is that darker rubies are always more valuable. While a deep red colour is desirable, the ideal hue for a ruby is a vivid, medium to deep red with a slight blue undertone, often called “pigeon blood red.” Rubies that are too dark or too light may not be as valuable.

Some people also believe that synthetic or treated rubies are of inferior quality. While natural, untreated rubies are generally more valuable, synthetic rubies have the same chemical and physical properties as natural ones and can be a beautiful, cost-effective option. Treated rubies, which have been enhanced to improve their colour or clarity, are also widely accepted in the market. Understanding these misconceptions helps you make a more informed decision when selecting ruby jewellery.

10. Why Rubies Remain a Coveted Gemstone in Jewellery

Rubies have long been celebrated as one of the most coveted gemstones, admired for their intense red colour, rarity, and symbolic significance. Known as the "gemstone of kings," rubies have adorned royal crowns, ceremonial attire, and exquisite jewellery throughout history. Their fiery red hue, often described as “pigeon blood red,” embodies passion, love, and courage, making them a timeless choice for those who seek a gemstone that is both meaningful and beautiful.

One of the primary reasons rubies remain highly valued is their extraordinary colour. The rich, vivid red of a fine ruby is unparalleled, radiating a warmth and intensity that captivates the eye. The most prized rubies exhibit a pure, saturated red with a slight blue undertone, free from any brown or purple hues. This unique colour not only sets rubies apart from other gemstones but also makes them an excellent choice for statement pieces like engagement rings, pendants, and bracelets. Their ability to convey strong emotions and symbolism makes rubies particularly appealing for those seeking a gemstone that represents love, commitment, and passion.

Rubies are also treasured for their durability. With a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale, rubies are incredibly resistant to scratches and suitable for everyday wear. This resilience makes them ideal for jewellery pieces like rings and bracelets, which may be exposed to frequent contact. Unlike many other gemstones, rubies can withstand the rigours of daily life while retaining their brilliance and vibrancy, making them a lasting investment for both their aesthetic and practical qualities.

The historical and cultural significance of rubies further adds to their allure. Throughout history, rubies have been associated with wealth, power, and protection. Ancient warriors wore rubies as talismans, believing they would protect them in battle, while royals and nobles adorned themselves with rubies to signify status and authority. In many cultures, rubies are believed to bring good fortune, health, and success in love, adding a layer of mystique and desirability to their natural beauty.

Furthermore, the rarity of fine rubies enhances their status as a luxury gemstone. High-quality rubies, especially those from Burma (Myanmar), are scarce and often command premium prices. Unlike diamonds, which are relatively more abundant, truly fine rubies are rare and hard to come by, making them highly sought after by collectors and connoisseurs alike.

The appeal of rubies also extends to their versatility in jewellery design. Whether set in a classic solitaire ring, an elaborate vintage brooch, or a modern pair of earrings, rubies add a touch of elegance and sophistication to any piece. Their rich red colour pairs beautifully with a variety of metals, including yellow gold, white gold, and platinum, allowing for endless design possibilities that suit a range of tastes and styles.

In today's world, rubies continue to captivate those who seek both beauty and meaning in their jewellery. Their unique blend of colour, durability, and symbolic significance ensures they remain a favourite among collectors, fashion enthusiasts, and those looking for a gemstone with deep personal resonance. Whether chosen for their romantic symbolism, their historical importance, or their sheer beauty, rubies will always be treasured as one of the most alluring and enduring gemstones in the world of fine jewellery.